05-27-2008, 07:16 AM
<b>Karachi â Jeddahâs Sisterly City
Tariq A. Al-Maeena</b>
If ever a city in Pakistan evokes memories of back home and the city of Jeddah, it is the city of Karachi with its chaotic hustle and bustle. The helter-skelter nature of its residents is very much comparable to Jeddahâs residents. As busy as Lahore, but perhaps with the unique flavor of being a vibrant coastal city, Karachi has indeed a distinctive charm of its own.
We flew in one early afternoon from Lahore on PIA, the national airline that has been gathering increasing admiration for its turnaround in passenger service and on-time performance. My last visit more than three decades ago did not help much in my recollections of the airport or the rest of the city. So much has changed since. Karachi has had its share of violence and mayhem over the years, and there was a period in recent times that one would be over oneâs head for considering a trip to this city. But things are different now.
Whether it was the recent elections or the resilience of the Karachi-ites to put all that violence behind them and move on, one can just surmise, but the evidence before us presented a city on the move. Construction was booming in the newer parts of town, while several cleanup operations were observed elsewhere. New roads and arteries were being set throughout the city.
And yes, Karachi does have its share of crowded streets and traffic jams, but if you choose your outings carefully, you can avail yourself of an uneventful experience. And let me assure you the roads we traversed upon are in far better shape than our own.
I had spent a better portion of my childhood in that city, and for me it was akin to going back home. Memories of Purani Numaish and Mohammed Ali Jinnah Road soon reinforced the reality of this visit as I visited Darul-Falah, the house I grew up in as a child, and where we had once feted the late King Faisal during one of his visits to Pakistan. It was gratifying to note after all these years that the new owners had left the Darul-Falah nameplate just outside the resident gates in its original condition.
The governor of Sindh was kind enough to detail us a patrol vehicle with a detachment of the Karachi police, and for similar purposes as in Lahore. However, they were not as aggressive or effective with Karachiâs wayward traffic, but we did not mind having them along for the ride.
A highlight of our trip included a visit to the mausoleum of the founder of Pakistan, the Quaid-e-Azam, Mohammed Ali Jinnah. The way to the mausoleum is a terraced and landscaped avenue emphasized by 15 successive fountains. The mausoleum is an impressive landmark of Karachi. Nearby are the graves of Liaqat Ali Khan, the first prime minister of Pakistan, and the Quaidâs sister, Fatima Jinnah.
Constructed with white marble and graced with curved Moorish arches and copper grills, the mausoleum rests on an elevated 54 meter square platform. An imposing crystal chandelier almost four-story high that was presented by the people of Peopleâs Republic of China dominates the vast central hall.
Around the mausoleum there is a park fitted with strong-beamed spot lights which at night project light on the white mausoleum, which allows the glowing tomb to be seen for miles at night. The mausoleum is usually quiet and tranquil considering that it is in the heart of this bustling city.
The actual gravesite is located in an underground chamber that our group was fortunate to visit, courtesy of the caretaker retired Maj. S. Ather Mir, the project manager of the site who is also responsible for the 53 hectare park encompassing this immense monument. Also included is a museum exhibiting original cars and pieces of furniture and clothing once used by Jinnah.
From there it was off to Clifton Beach, a popular destination for the locals. Situated on the Arabian Sea, the beach hosts several attractions for picnic goers, including amusement parks, animal rides and restaurants. On the pretext of a photo opportunity, Nasser Habtar and I convinced one of our group members, Tarek Mishkhas, to saddle up on a seated camel, while privately telling the camel herder to get the camel up and running as soon as he was saddled up.
As the camel lurched up, and then swung back, the look of terror on Tarekâs face made for some interesting snapshots. The shock and jolt of that ride did little to ease the âDelhi bellyâ syndrome poor Tarek was suffering from, but he was a good sport about it.
After a round of roasted corn stalks and pani purri or goal guppas from a sidewalk vendor on the shores of Clifton, our group split up, some to meet up with MQM officials while others opted for a shopping spree on Tariq Road, a mega polis of shops displaying everything imaginable.
I finished off the evening with some local companions indulging in what I categorically regard as the worldâs best barbeque outlet; Bundoo Khan with its mouth watering kebabs and parathas, and topped it off with sweet Faluda in the downtown Saddar area.
Tariq A. Al-Maeena</b>
If ever a city in Pakistan evokes memories of back home and the city of Jeddah, it is the city of Karachi with its chaotic hustle and bustle. The helter-skelter nature of its residents is very much comparable to Jeddahâs residents. As busy as Lahore, but perhaps with the unique flavor of being a vibrant coastal city, Karachi has indeed a distinctive charm of its own.
We flew in one early afternoon from Lahore on PIA, the national airline that has been gathering increasing admiration for its turnaround in passenger service and on-time performance. My last visit more than three decades ago did not help much in my recollections of the airport or the rest of the city. So much has changed since. Karachi has had its share of violence and mayhem over the years, and there was a period in recent times that one would be over oneâs head for considering a trip to this city. But things are different now.
Whether it was the recent elections or the resilience of the Karachi-ites to put all that violence behind them and move on, one can just surmise, but the evidence before us presented a city on the move. Construction was booming in the newer parts of town, while several cleanup operations were observed elsewhere. New roads and arteries were being set throughout the city.
And yes, Karachi does have its share of crowded streets and traffic jams, but if you choose your outings carefully, you can avail yourself of an uneventful experience. And let me assure you the roads we traversed upon are in far better shape than our own.
I had spent a better portion of my childhood in that city, and for me it was akin to going back home. Memories of Purani Numaish and Mohammed Ali Jinnah Road soon reinforced the reality of this visit as I visited Darul-Falah, the house I grew up in as a child, and where we had once feted the late King Faisal during one of his visits to Pakistan. It was gratifying to note after all these years that the new owners had left the Darul-Falah nameplate just outside the resident gates in its original condition.
The governor of Sindh was kind enough to detail us a patrol vehicle with a detachment of the Karachi police, and for similar purposes as in Lahore. However, they were not as aggressive or effective with Karachiâs wayward traffic, but we did not mind having them along for the ride.
A highlight of our trip included a visit to the mausoleum of the founder of Pakistan, the Quaid-e-Azam, Mohammed Ali Jinnah. The way to the mausoleum is a terraced and landscaped avenue emphasized by 15 successive fountains. The mausoleum is an impressive landmark of Karachi. Nearby are the graves of Liaqat Ali Khan, the first prime minister of Pakistan, and the Quaidâs sister, Fatima Jinnah.
Constructed with white marble and graced with curved Moorish arches and copper grills, the mausoleum rests on an elevated 54 meter square platform. An imposing crystal chandelier almost four-story high that was presented by the people of Peopleâs Republic of China dominates the vast central hall.
Around the mausoleum there is a park fitted with strong-beamed spot lights which at night project light on the white mausoleum, which allows the glowing tomb to be seen for miles at night. The mausoleum is usually quiet and tranquil considering that it is in the heart of this bustling city.
The actual gravesite is located in an underground chamber that our group was fortunate to visit, courtesy of the caretaker retired Maj. S. Ather Mir, the project manager of the site who is also responsible for the 53 hectare park encompassing this immense monument. Also included is a museum exhibiting original cars and pieces of furniture and clothing once used by Jinnah.
From there it was off to Clifton Beach, a popular destination for the locals. Situated on the Arabian Sea, the beach hosts several attractions for picnic goers, including amusement parks, animal rides and restaurants. On the pretext of a photo opportunity, Nasser Habtar and I convinced one of our group members, Tarek Mishkhas, to saddle up on a seated camel, while privately telling the camel herder to get the camel up and running as soon as he was saddled up.
As the camel lurched up, and then swung back, the look of terror on Tarekâs face made for some interesting snapshots. The shock and jolt of that ride did little to ease the âDelhi bellyâ syndrome poor Tarek was suffering from, but he was a good sport about it.
After a round of roasted corn stalks and pani purri or goal guppas from a sidewalk vendor on the shores of Clifton, our group split up, some to meet up with MQM officials while others opted for a shopping spree on Tariq Road, a mega polis of shops displaying everything imaginable.
I finished off the evening with some local companions indulging in what I categorically regard as the worldâs best barbeque outlet; Bundoo Khan with its mouth watering kebabs and parathas, and topped it off with sweet Faluda in the downtown Saddar area.
